Burberry's Autumn/Winter 2018 show marked a pivotal moment in the brand's history. It was the debut collection of Riccardo Tisci, the celebrated Italian designer, who took the reins from Christopher Bailey after a long and successful tenure. The collection wasn't just a change of designers; it represented a significant shift in Burberry's aesthetic direction, a bold reimagining of the brand's heritage for a new generation. This article delves deep into the Burberry FW 2018 show, analyzing its key elements, its impact on the fashion world, and its lasting legacy.
The anticipation surrounding Tisci's first Burberry collection was palpable. The London Fashion Week show was highly publicized, generating considerable buzz amongst fashion critics, industry insiders, and the general public. This wasn't simply the unveiling of a new collection; it was the unveiling of a new vision for a brand synonymous with British heritage and sophistication. The pressure was immense, and the stakes were undeniably high. Could Tisci successfully navigate the delicate balance of honoring Burberry's legacy while simultaneously injecting his own distinct design language?
The answer, as revealed on the runway, was a resounding yes, albeit with complexities and nuances that sparked both praise and criticism. The collection was a fascinating juxtaposition of contrasts, a deliberate blend of Burberry's established codes and Tisci's signature gothic-infused aesthetic. The iconic Burberry check, a cornerstone of the brand's identity, was reinterpreted and reimagined, appearing in unexpected ways – subtly woven into fabrics, deconstructed and reconstructed, or boldly emblazoned across garments. This wasn't a mere repetition of past glories; it was a conscious act of subversion and reinvention.
The colour palette was equally striking. While Burberry's traditional earthy tones were present, they were interwoven with darker, more dramatic shades – deep blacks, rich burgundies, and brooding greys. This darker palette immediately distinguished Tisci's approach from Bailey's, suggesting a move towards a more sophisticated and perhaps even slightly rebellious aesthetic. The collection showcased a range of textures, from the luxurious smoothness of cashmere and silk to the robust strength of leather and heavier fabrics. This tactile diversity added to the overall richness and complexity of the collection.
Silhouettes were a key aspect of the FW 2018 show. Tisci introduced sharper, more structured lines, a departure from the often softer, more fluid silhouettes that had characterized Burberry under Bailey. Tailoring played a significant role, with impeccably crafted suits and coats showcasing Tisci's mastery of form and construction. However, this structured tailoring was balanced by more relaxed, oversized pieces, creating a dynamic interplay between formality and informality. The juxtaposition of these contrasting silhouettes reflected the broader tension between tradition and modernity that permeated the entire collection.
The accessories played a vital role in solidifying the overall aesthetic. The iconic Burberry trench coat was reimagined in various iterations, showcasing Tisci's ability to both respect and revolutionize a design classic. Bags, shoes, and other accessories were designed with a similar attention to detail and a similar blend of classic and contemporary elements. The use of bold logos and graphic elements further emphasized the shift towards a more assertive and contemporary brand image.
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